1000 Nights Desert Camp - Apr 4-6

Janelle and I had been wanting to venture into the Wahiba Sands since we arrived in Oman and decided it was a unique thing to do with our friend Carla. We booked a night at the 1000 Nights Desert Camp and off we went. The Wahiba sands are about a 250 km drive from Muscat and we set off in the early afternoon. We had never driven in sand before and only knew that you were to let some air out of the tires. After arriving in Al Ghabbi we stopped at the Shell station to fill up and noticed a parking lot full of Jeep's and Toyota's letting air out of  the tires. We also began to slightly question the Subaru's ability in the sand. The previous owner insisted it was great in the Wahiba sands. Our concern only grew when we reached the end of the paved road and two Omani men stopped (of course in a Toyota Land Cruiser) to make sure our "car" would make it to the camp. We only had 40 km of driving to do in the sand and we assured them we'd be alright.

Janelle drove to the camp and the AWD was more than adequate for the sand roads we were on. The feeling of driving in sand is similar to driving in deep snow with the car drifting around a fair amount. We reached the camp and saw a small compound with trees, a few buildings, a parking lot of white Toyota Land Cruisers and a small collection of bedouin style tents. We checked in and were greeted with Omani tea, coffee and dates. Inside our tent were 3 cots set in a U shape around the edge. The sun was setting so we climbed the nearby dunes to watch and realized just how vast the sand was. As far as you could see was sand, no trees, no rock, just sand. Supper was at 7:30 so we sand boarded down the dune back to camp.

We sat in the Bedouin section of the restaurant, meaning not tables or chairs just pillows. What was really nice is that the only other group sitting on the cushions with us were the Omani's who work at 1000 Nights, all the other tourists sat in the main restaurant area with tables. Supper was a buffet which is normal here, and the food was fabulous! The cooks led us out to see the uncovering of the Shuwa. Shuwa is marinated lamb wrapped in banana leaves and set over coals and then buried in the sand (similar to a hawaiian luau). The meat is cooked for over 24 hours and must be watched to keep animals away from digging it up. The shuwa tasted great and there was also BBQ lamb chops and chicken wings, chicken shawarma and various rices and pitas.

The next morning we decided to ride the camels. Janelle and Carla went first and although the ride was short it was definitely worth it to say we've all ridden on a camel. Similar to riding a horse except for the height and the start and end of the ride when the camel pops up and lays down. After breakfast we hoped into a Land Cruiser to go dune bashing with our guide Mohammad who drove with bare feet and no seatbelt (of course). We drove through the sand for an hour and with big grins stuck to our face the entire time. It was amazing where the Toyota could go. Once back at camp, we checked out and loaded up the Subaru to head home. In case anyone is wondering what this experience might run you for, it was 65 rial for the tent, 25 omr 4x4ing and 3 omr/ea for the camel ride.  It was my turn to drive in the sand but our return was short lived as we got a flat about 3 km from camp. With a bit of help from two passerbys (including our guide Mohammad, who was also the camel guide. A man of many talents obviously) we got the tire changed and were off again. Back in Al Ghabbi we stopped at the Shell to fill up the tires and made it back to Muscat, tired, covered in sand but very satisfied with the whole experience. 

Driving through the desert

No practicing shooting!

Carla climbing the dunes behind camp

Janelle in mid stride

Adam looking tipsy, into the wine already?

Sand boarding, a lot slower than expected

View of camp, our tent was in the bunch on the left

Shuwa pit, wrapped in banana leaves

With Mohammad our off road driver (Carla must be on her tippy toes)

Just in case you forgot

This picture is not an accurate depiction of the tire removal, Adam did all the work